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We were staying right in the park (remember next to Idi Amin’s former lodge with the leopard), so every trip we took was a game drive, but we did at least two lengthy outings. Unfortunately we never spotted any lions, and the only drama were a few scrapes between Kob bucks, but no photos of it. Thanks to our guide John, who helped me identify the animals.

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On our last day of vacation, we were in Kampala and toured the Gaddaffi Mosque. It is the largest mosque in East Africa. Quoting from Wikipedia:

The Uganda National Mosque is a mosque located at Kampala Hill in the Old Kampala area of Kampala, Uganda. Completed in 2006, it seats up to 15,000 worshipers and can hold another 1,100 in the gallery, while the terrace will cater for another 3,500. Colonel Muammar Gaddafi of Libya commissioned the mosque as a gift to Uganda, and for the benefit of the Muslim population. Uganda has many mosques but this one is a skyscraper mosque.^[1]

The completed mosque was opened officially in June 2007 under the name Gaddafi National Mosque, and housed the head offices of the Uganda Muslim Supreme Council.^[2] It was renamed “Uganda National Mosque” in 2013 following the death of Colonel Gaddafi as the new Libyan administration was “reluctant to rehabilitate the mosque under the old name.”^[

The mosque was gorgeous.

 
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Well, my life keeps taking some crazy turns. I have been wondering what I am going to do when my term of service ends. I was dreading a return to home with not much to do. I even sent out an email to 17 retired friends to request their thoughts about retirement.

My most idyllic retirement vision consisted of hitting the treadmill every morning while I watch ESPN Sportscenter, followed by a walk to Cheeseman Park with a thermos of tea, a bagel, and the Denver Post. I could give Power Point presentations to service clubs around town about the Peace Corps and Uganda (free meals!). I could volunteer to be a CASA again. I could volunteer for the ALS Society when they need help. My Rotary Club is still there. This was my leisurely retirement life fantasy. Its not too bad…

One thing I knew however, I wanted more work in third world countries. Perhaps after being home awhile, I could work for Peace Corps Response. And I have been considering a new Peace Corps tour in another country. It happens frequently with older PCVs.

I had recently decided to reactivate my law license when I returned, and volunteer for the Colorado ACLU, if they would have me. I hoped working in a new corner of the law for a good cause as part of the “resistance” might reinvigorate me. A few weeks ago, a friend who is past-president of the ACLU E-introduced and recommended me to the current president. But for now, he has more on his mind than an old lawyer who won’t be home until August or September . Maybe one of my readers knows more about volunteer lawyering for the ACLU. So I settled for the potential ACLU scenario, at least for now. And I could do worse than the above “leisurely retirement” above, as long as I kept busy.

Then a couple of weeks ago, the Peace Corps sent out a new third-year extension opportunity, right before the deadline to apply for extension. They had sent out other opportunities leading up to our COS conference, but none had interested me. I assumed I would COS and go home in August. But this opportunity intrigued me. My supervisor Meital said she thought I could do the work. I tormented myself (and my kids and siblings) with indecision over a weekend with a Monday deadline to apply. I concluded that if there was so much uncertainty, I should just send an email to Meital turning it down.

Right after sending that email, however, I got very depressed. Five hours later, I told Meital I changed my mind, and threw together my application with an updated resume. I guess the heart knew what it wanted. On Thursday I was approved for the position. There will be five PCVs in my cohort extending.

I will move 260 miles to Arua, near Uganda’s northwest corner, on the opposite side of the country from Bugiri, which, except for Lake Victoria, is near the southeast corner. Arua is near both the borders of the Democratic Republic of Congo and South Sudan. The town of Arua is much larger than Bugiri, with many tarmacked roads. Adams says they have “booming” Rotary Club.

I will work with CARE International, and help them administer three refugee camps, with refugees primarily from the South Sudan conflict. There are nearly 850,000 South Sudanese refugees in Uganda, coming in at the rate of 2,500 per day.

I will be doing M&E work (monitoring and evaluation). I understand M&E from the Peace Corps reports and feedback about my own activities, and ATEFO’s reports to it’s funders. There is an M&E man in my office. I figure it’s a matter of learning the “CARE way” of monitoring its activities and all the measurables from the camps.

However, I was a bit worried that some elements in the job description seemed like IT and excessive data input, not my strong suits. The CARE country director has assured me it isn’t. She said I would need to be analytical. Things are quite fluid, so don’t expect a repetitive type of job or work environment. I loved hearing all that. [Based upon our conversation, I wrote out some examples of interesting tasks I understand I will be doing, but decided to wait and write about it as it happens-sorry! This post is long enough.] CARE has a staff of eleven in Arua today but it is going to double in size in September.
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The Country Director, Delphine, is French. Meital said its the first Peace Corps-Uganda / CARE collaboration (hard to believe), but Delphine said she has experience working with PCVs in other countries.

I have been interested in the refugee crisis here and in Europe for quite awhile and I’ve provided updates to you about the South Sudan crisis before. I’ve written about my PCV friend Aruna, who was one of the “Lost Boys of Sudan” and took a few of us to his childhood camp. His mother and family are in a refugee camp in Uganda now.

It’s a one year commitment.  The director said if things worked out, there could be further opportunities, not just in Uganda.  CARE works in more than 80 countries. It seems to me, an M&E position is a good way to learn about this sector. I should have at least a year left in my tank, maybe I can have a short second career. (Oh Jan, why didn’t we join the Peace Corps when we were 50? We could have put the kids in boarding school.:-) )

You can learn more about the history of South Sudan  here.(105 second video) and a deeper dive in the conflict is here. . A recent article about the current dire situation is here. The very interesting history of CARE International, which started in 1945 out of the ashes of World War II, is here.

While right now I am thinking about this work in the abstract,  I can’t romanticize this. I am probably in for some sad shit and will need to be resilient.

As a perk to this extension, the Peace Corps will pay for a one month leave before I start. I am requesting to finish my service in Bugiri in mid-July, and come home until moving to Arua in mid-August.[Since my original post was published, this schedule might be delayed a month]   I might spend a couple of days in New York to visit my son Clark. I hope I will be able to visit with many of my Denver area friends. I will be home long enough to go to at least one concert at Red Rocks, one Rockies game (hopefully still contending), one Ft. Collins trip to see my Uncle Roy, one poker night, a few Rotary meetings, use my condo’s pool for the first time, and many mom visits. And of course, whatever time busy Blair-with-attached-boyfriend can spare for her old man. I will displace her roommate for a month (Its OK, her roomie has a place).  

This also means you will have to endure my blog for another year.  Sorry, sorry.

Blair says Pam H. told her she knew I would extend. OK Pam how? I wasn’t anticipating this until a couple of weeks ago myself. Anyone else think that?  Do I sound like I am having too much fun here? Perhaps my last blog post next year will be titled “The top ten unpleasant things that happened during service I didn’t blog about until I got home because it would’ve have freaked out my mom”  Not really mom, just kidding, nothing bad has ever happened here.

 

In our first day in Murchison Falls, we took a cruise on the Nile, followed by a hike to the top of the falls.

Murchison Falls is the site of the movie “The African Queen” starring Humphrey Bogart, Katharine Hepburn and Lauren Bacall, and directed by John Huston.

The making of the movie was an adventure. Pit latrine outhouses were used, and due to the cast drinking foul water, everyone but Humphrey Bogart and director John Huston came down with dysentery. Bogart and Huston supposedly were protected by drinking large quantities of Scotch. Released in 1952, this was Bogart’s only best actor Oscar. There was a time when there was a long line in front of a pit-latrine when a woman came screaming out of it after having encountered a poisonous Black Mamba. A few years earlier, Ernest Hemingway clipped a telephone line and crash landed near Murchison Falls. He was rescued a few days later by a man who later piloted one of the three “African Queens” used in the movie..

“The country is like a great sponge—it finally absorbs you. Eventually you will get malaria or you will get dysentery and whatever you do, if you don’t keep doing it, the jungle will grow over you. Black or white, you’ve got to fight it every minute of the day.”
― Katharine Hepburn, The Making of The African Queen, or: How I went to Africa with Bogart, Bacall and Huston and almost lost my mind

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After we left Fort Portal we dove ten hours on Hoima Road to Murchison Falls. It is a very bumpy dirt road. PCV David calls it “Puke Road”, a fair appellation. Our driver John said we were getting an “African Massage”. At Murchison Falls, we stayed at Pakuba Safari Lodge in the heart of the park. Nearby, there are sprawling, over-grown ruins of the original lodge complex. The current lodge and our accommodations were built out from the original servant’s quarters.

As this article explains, the Pakuba Safari Lodge became a favorite haunt of Idi Amin, who turned it into a “State Lodge”, his private retreat. He did hunting from there, nearly decimating the entire elephant population. Now his haunt is sort of haunted. The cited article does not indicate how this site got destroyed. The manager of the newer lodge told me, after Amin was toppled, the remnants of his troops destroyed it as they were being chased by the advancing troops loyal to his successor, Obote. My driver John disagrees, saying it was attacked and shelled because of a mistaken belief Amin was there.

We stayed three nights, and John took us over to the ruins every time we went out or returned. He knew there were leopard(s) there. We were fortunate to see a lounging hyena on one trip and the leopard you see above on another trip.

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Swamp walk